GORILLAS, SAVAGES, AND REDEMPTION
Hotel Mille des Collines, Kigali, Rwanda. Ever see the movie Hotel Rwanda? It's about the manager of a hotel in Africa who did his best to provide a refuge from one of the greatest atrocities in history - the slaughter of over 800,000 innocent people in 100 days. I'm writing this from that hotel.
This is a story of grotesque horror and magnificent inspiration. Let's start with a question: Which one is the murderous savage?


Hint: gorillas are vegetarians.
I took the bull silverback gorilla's picture two days ago on the slopes of the Gahinga volcano in the Virunga mountains of Rwanda. He paid almost no attention to me at all.
The picture of the guy with the "panga" knife was taken in 1994 by a journalist who was lucky he wasn't hacked to death - like hundreds of thousands of others butchered by this guy and his buddies. Sure enough, he's the savage.
Yet the savages of Rwanda are not all natives, for this is a story of Belgian and French savages as well, with one of the latter being the president of his country at the time.