SMUGGLERS’ PARADISE
This is a story about 21st century Persian smugglers and 19th century British soldiers driven crazy by literally going "around the bend." It takes place in one of the world's most inhospitable and strategically critical places in the world - the Strait of Hormuz.
This is where the sharp tip of Arabia, known as the Musandam Point, sticks into the Persian Gulf, separating it from the Indian Ocean. The Strait of Hormuz is only 30 miles wide from Musandam Point to the coast of Iran, and through it passes a substantial fraction of the world's crude oil, pumped out of the Saudi, Kuwaiti, Iraqi, Iranian, and Emirati oil fields, and into giant supertankers which snake through the Strait in continuous succession.
That's where I am right now, writing this overlooking the Strait of Hormuz. The sun is setting, and I can see it lighting up the cliffs of Iran.
There's a direct flight from Arbil in Iraqi Kurdistan to Dubai in the United Arab Emirates. From there I drove through the other Emirates like Sharjah and Umm al Qawain, then up into the wasteland of Musandam to here.
I had come to see a Persian smuggling operation running contraband across the Strait by speedboat into Iran. But first, let's talk about those crazy Brits...